Welcome to week 1 of The Started Dog with Scott Glen – Extending The Outrun!

Here’s how the class works:

Each session in the class is presented in a 7 day presentation that you will experience in this format:

  • Monday: Watch the video instruction for the week.
  • Monday thru Wednesday (Noon PST): Submit your questions for Scott Glen by emailing them to questions@sheepdogtrainingcourses.com. Please keep your questions to the dog(s) and training method as it applies to the dog(s) in the segment. In order to allow Scott enough time to develop his answers while traveling to trials and clinics, please submit questions by Wednesday, Noon PST.
  • Thursday afternoon: Answers to submitted questions will be available to listen to. Question and Answer sessions will also be available in writing to make finding specific answers easy.
  • Friday: Check back here for final thoughts from the week and the homework assignment developed by Scott Glen.
  • Saturday/Sunday: Review what has been present in this week’s class.

This page will contain all of the information as it becomes available throughout the week. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us at questions@sheepdogtrainingcourses.com.

This Week’s Video

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Questions & Answers

Click the play button below to listen to the MP3 version of the Q&A. It may take a few seconds before it buffers enough to play.

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Lengtheing the Outrun; written transcription from audio Question and Answer session with Scott Glen

Q – Can you provide some advice regarding what to do if your dog is not going out wide but is walking straight towards the sheep.
A – When I was going towards her to make her start to bend, or start to move when I was by the sheep, to make sure she starts right.  That kind of ties into the questions later but I think we covered it to in The Young Dog with Lass, I do believe, as long as she bends, as long as she moves off of the sheep, then let her go.  A dog with a lot of eye, it takes a little more determination.  Basically it means you get up a little bit closer; you be closer to the dog, the sheep be closer to you.  If she won’t bend at a distance, get closer so it will bend.

Q – In the video it seems you are letting the dog overrun the balance point.  I don’t know if it’s the camera angle or if it’s intentional.
A – Yes it is intentional. There was a pull to four o’clock, on the camera looking up the field, so four o’clock ot the left of the camera (the camera being six o’clock).  Yes she likes undercovering the come bye and always have, so with the pull and with her wanting to always be to the away to me anyway, it was certainly intentional.

Q – After say a 100 yd outrun do you continue to lengthen the distance gradually by using the same setup, (walking out approx. 2/3 of the way and sending the dog)?  I assume you don’t do this until you feel the dog is correct at the shorter distance.
A – Exactly, real good question.  That is why I am staying off that line, so I am still there to make sure it is right. To push her far enough around for one thing and to keep her out far enough.  But trying to stay off that line as much as possible. To try and be as invisible as possible while still being there to help if she needs pushed out and around.

Q – At about 11:04, Bliss stops a bit short on her outrun and Scott gives a ComeBye flank to move her around.  Do you prefer to use a flank command or do you ever use a “out” or “get out” to correct for the dog coming in at the wrong time?
A – I prefer to use a flank command because if I say “get out” I would like it to look like a “get out”.  Not just an “out”, or a different word for a flank.  If it is out, I want to be able to see it, that they bent out.  With Bliss I was just trying to keep her going around. She did not know her flanks good enough in that video to really take off and keep going but I prefer to keep her going with a flank rather than a “get out”.  A “get out” being pressure; pressure getting width and sometimes a little bit slow.  I always like to see the speed, come bye helping her to get around.  If she is too tight, then that is a different thing…then “get out” and then maybe a come bye or away to me: whatever is pertinent.

Q –  I noticed that you stopped the dog at the top, except on 1 or 2 runs when the dog came in short on the come-by side.  Are there times in training a young dog that you don’t stop them at the top?
A – Yes….if they won’t!  No not very often right at the stop, certainly we want them to be able to do it.  We are not trying to get a dog that can’t possibly bring sheep unless it is stopped.  But right now, with a young dog, If I can’t stop them, I can’t help them to do it right and then it is just brow beating them and grinding them down to not make a mistake. Rather than helping them to not make a mistake with just not letting them with a stop to get in trouble.  Now with her she would not stop 100% by any means, when you have to start shouting a stop, then it is more pressure in itself.

Q –  I think I noticed that you let the dog get up on her own to bring the sheep, after stopping her at the top.  Perhaps you covered this in the earlier course — but the question is, is that the approach you take to the stop, i.e., let the dog get up without a whistle?
A – Yes quite often let them make the right move after they stop.  When she over-ran she stopped and then I flanked her back and gave her a steady; flanking her back to balance. But when I stopped her on the fetch a few times, letting her come up, certainly I will. Now as poorly as she is starting to stop there, that little bit of freedom is going to leave for a time or two right after. The lie down will be a lie down until you are told differently.  Just to take some of that freedom away.  When she looks like she is not taking the freedom as a sign to party, I certainly will give it back.  There again, an obedient dog that still knows it job, trying to develop that.

Q – A bit hard to tell from the film, but it looks like her outruns are more apple-shaped than pear-shaped.  It would seem that going partway to sheep to have her bend might make it difficult to get the pear-shape.  What are your feelings about the two?
A – I am not worried about the pear shape right there.  It is close enough, I’m teaching her to pick a line, to get a line going or an arc. Then not to break that arc, so later on when she starts bening out, she knows what I am talking about then. That’s because she is collapsing and not keeping the same arc.  A pear shaped, to just shush them up there, certainly it is really nice when a dog will do that. But right there I am not worried and I am not trying to get a pear shapped, I am trying to get her to pick up a line.  Forcing her to start off a little bit wide and to keep that.  Now if it is a dog that is just going to go to the Netherlands, then certainly, I am not going to be pushing them out. But there again, when you get a dog that is real wide like that, it takes quiet a while but it will be difficult to really teach them to bend out when I have to. A wide dog is going to come in too tight once in a while if they don’t know where the sheep are. A pear shape, they have to know where the sheep are or what’s to be a pear shape on.  How far do they go?  If the sheep are out of sight, how do you tell them?  I am just trying to show her, that how I send her is how far the sheep are going to be.  If she breaks that angle/arc that she is going on, I can try to help her find that arc again.  Instead of just doing a natural outrun showing they know how to get around their sheep, giving some room; which is very admirable.  But I am trying to lengthen the outrun, I am not trying to show if it is a natural outrun.

Q –  It seems that she overruns the top balance point at the top and sometimes you stopped her and other times you steadied her .  First – why did you let her (what appeared to be) overrun before stopping or getting her to turn in and Second, why sometimes a stop and why sometimes a steady to get her to come in.
A – Why sometimes a stop and some times a steady? I did not steady her, I don’t believe, if she over-ran when I was trying to get her to over-run. It would be a stop or a flank back, or both and then a steady at balance.  As far as when to give her a steady.  It was after I gave her a stop and then flanked her, before she went too far on that flank, I gave her a steady.  Or the odd that I gave her a steady just out of the outrun, was when she looked like she was using her head.  The same as when I gave her the stop and then the flank over before she got going to darn fast to not get the steady. Basically if it looked like her attitude was good I would give it a try.  That was more for the video than what I do at home; I tend to probably stop her  quite a bit more. I would like her taking that steady a little bit better before I started giving it too much.  Very good question.

Q – Is she naturally wide or was it trained?
A – She was not naturally wide, no.

Q – Scott had to use five stops and a verbal correction before she did a stop on the last session….is this what to be expected at this stage? By repeating the stops, doesn’t it make the dog think she doesn’t have to stop until second stop? When Scott said he will go back to basic on stop, will he do it before the next training session?
A – Yes and yes.  By repeating the stop, certainly is not encouraging her to take the stop; if I have to give her three or four, so yes on that.  Am I going to go work on that before the next training session?  The next training session will exactly be a stop training.  Just a little bit, brand new stop and holder and everything else, and not the easiest dog to stop. She likes getting on with the job not like a dog with too much eye that is easy to stop but comes with its own difficulties as well.  {note from SDTC: it’s one of the demises of filming  something with an intent on what we are trying to show.  It was not a stop lesson it was lengthening the outrun, maybe you would have put more emphasis on the stop had you been home, but we were filming something specific.  People have to keep that in mind as well}

Q – Is she normally tighter on the away side?
A – No, the opposite

Q – What would he do if she wanted to bring the sheep to the setout person?
A – I would get closer {Note from SDTC: this is addressed in the Started Dog’s: Lifting Off People, Scott will talk about this in  great detail.  Be sure to tune in for week four}

Q – Bliss starts her outruns wide at the bottom, than a keyhole. Why? Is this preferred by Scott?
A – We went over the shape of the outrun already with the pear shape.

Q – Why is she overrunning at the top? Is there a draw we do not see?
A – There is a draw to the camera’s left but she is over-running the top because it is easier to get them to quit over-running than under-running.  If they over-run you get the added bonus that you can give the other flank, work on thier flanks slightly at a distance.

Q – Is his session, what did he like about her work?
A – I thought she was game, she was game to try to be right.  She did not know enough , I can’t remember how much time she had on her, but not much.  The dog that I was grooming for nursery, I had just sold so she came out and got quite a bit of work in a short amount of time.  I like the way she was game to try to do it, to try to be right. She did not know enough to always be right. But I guess the biggest thing was, she showed that she was game to keep going trying to be right.

Q – What did he see as an improvement, beside the stop, to work on?
A – Oh that’s about it, that time.  I mean little bits is little bits.

Q – At this stage, how wide did you want to see your dog go on her outrun and at any point did you think that she was going too wide?
A – I thought a couple times on the right she maybe broke a little too much, but only because it was out of worry.  You could see later on in the video, you could see that she was breaking off real nice when she started to go from my feet.  Bliss broke off to the right quite a bit when I was by the sheep. When I started going from my feet a little bit, she was breaking off really nice.  Just what I thought was really nice except for the one where I did not feel she broke off enough.  Going from my feet she was breaking off at a nice angle.  There were a couple times she went reverse a little bit, away from the sheep before she started going up field.  I thought that was too much but I did not stress on it too much.  I just tried to help her out of it.  Not worrying about it to terrible much, just ignoring it and getting myself out of the road a little bit more.

Q – Also, sometimes you stopped Bliss and sometimes she stopped on her own. From the video she seemed to stop anywhere from ten o’clock to two o’clock. Are you concerned at all at this point about where she stops, and if so, do you want to see her stop by herself at the top and where should she stop?
A – I’d like to see her stop, if she is left to stop by herself, she should stop at balance.  But right now I am not concerned of her stopping on her own.  Through repetition, they are going to. It is not different than anything, if every time you send them, you stop them at the top, they are going to start stopping at the top. That is one of the reasons I want them to over-run right now, I don’t want them stopping without any thought to it.  That’s why I am giving her an extra flank, to help her over-run so i can basically work on that flank a little bit. Flank back to balance and then go from there with a nice steady.  But I don’t worry about if she stops on her own.  If I stop her every time, of course she is going to start stopping on her own simply because every time she is.  When she does start stopping on her own, if I don’t ask it, I am not going to give her trouble for making the next move for sure.  Because it is the stopping her on her own that is giving her the chance to evaluate what to do next.  Me stopping her or later her stopping on her own, later on after that, her slowing up on her own.

Q – On the 1st outrun to the left when the dog pulled up and stopped, what would you do if the dog is not taking the redirect or takes it with a slow pace while eying the sheep?
A – Later on at about 14:10 about 10 into the training sessions about 10 seconds showed a pretty good example of that, how using the sheep to help the dog cover.  That is basically so they have to over-do it, because they have to over-do it to get to the head of the sheep; to the balance of the sheep.  It is not 12 o’clock then, it’s over 12 o’clock and to get to their head.  As opposed to the opposite: having to stop short to cover the sheep.

Q – Should you lie a dog down on its outrun and redirect it or should you try and redirect on the move?
A – I like to be able to do it on the move, now redirect is not quiet the same as helping them keep going around.  Another flank is just help to keep them going around which is what I was doing with Bliss.  To a large degree it was just helping her go around. But as far as really redirecting them, ie them change their path from this close to the sheep to really opening up, you have to stop them, I think, for a while so you can get there or take what they are doing away.  Take the motion of them being tighter away and to start it again.  I think there was a good show of “bend” and 4:12, and 7:35 it showed it again in slow motion and at 8:10 and at 12:50 and at 12:30.  With that, it is one of the reasons she is not stopping 100% because she was allowed to bend; when I would stop her if she would bend I would leave her to go.  With the idea being eventually you can stop them if you have to, to bend them out but if you can do it on the fly, all the better.  Stopping them on the outrun is just about always, if they are taught properly, that they just don’t see the sheep so you can help them pick that line up again.    Thus starting them out like I was there, instead of trying to just get a pear shaped starting them out. So if they break that line, if I don’t think they see the sheep, or they are just not in sight, you can get them picking up an arc and then try to keep that arc  Even if it means a bend-out on the fly.  A bending out to put it in a shape would look like a little bit of a figure 8, without crossing it but if you took two circles that when it starts to collapsing that arc, you stop them (or on the fly when they are really broke) and they pick up the top of the next arc of the number 8.

Q – When you sent the dog right and almost immediately started trying to lie her down and then called her off, what was it that you saw to cause this?
A – Bliss did not break off right from the start, to break off quite enough.  And I left her to go a little bit, just very short to see if she would widen out a bit and then she didn’t. She got tighter and then she just simple wouldn’t stop.  So I just called her off.  I was not intentional, where to let her get.  It was just where I could get her called off.

Q – How would push a dog out wider and deeper on the outrun?
A – Just what we have gone over:  stop her and if she does not know how to break, that is getting back to starting at 4:12 and then again 7:35, and again at 8:10, there were several times where I stopped her and she bent and I could see it.  If you can’t see the difference in direction, she can most certainly not feel it.  That is how I would do it, stop her at first.  Dogs are as different as people, if it is a dog that just doesn’t accept a stop and doesn’t know what to do after that stop, and just gets slow, you’ve got use your sheep to first get them around, so they know they can finish the outrun. Then you can start bending them and them accepting they can still get around.  If you can’t see it, they can’t feel it.  So if you are just shouting out and you can’t see that dog really take a bend and keep going, then they are not going to feel it.  With that bend, it is going to take some pressure to get that bend. But if you don’t get that bend, they are not going to really know what they are doing so they are probably just going to slow up.  They might give you room but only because they are yielding to pressure. They won’t know exactly what they have been doing as far as a bend, it is more yielding  to pressure.

Q –  
Can you explain how / when you decide to use ‘There” .  I am not sure when to say “there’ to help a dog turn in at the right spot versus, for example, saying the dog’s name and having it ‘feel/hunt’ the right spot to come in ( letting it work), versus “lie down, walk up” as another way to  get balance correct.   I want to train, not micromanage!   Confidence through obedience in a thinking dog, not a mechanical worker.  See #2.
A – Anybody that has worked with me has heard me say, don’t mistake mechanical with obedient.  Don’t mistake natural with out -of-control or disobedient.  Certainly we are after much of the same thing at the end of the day.  It does not matter who it is, we want a dog that knows it job but listens if it needs a little bit of help.  As far as where to use a “there”, I will use a “there” where I want it to turn in. And if the dog knows it is allowed to come, as with Bliss, she’s probably coming a little too strong.  But they will certainly look forward to a “there” a lot more when they know they are allowed to come up instead of being really really slow, being ground down so they have to come on really slow.  They won’t over flank near as bad, certainly, but they might not come up with the force, and look forward to that there meaning something positive.

Q – Sort of speaks to #2, but how do you manage the young dog overrunning balance.  Pressure of set out person aside or maybe not!  Did you keep person/dog on same side to lessen pressure?
A – I was purposely trying to get her to over flank and over-do-it, and then flanking her back and giving her a “there”.  I mean she certainly is not that broke in that video but it was a pretty good example of what I was trying to do.  As far as the “there”, what I am always wanting is; I want them taught to over run that outrun a little bit because it is easier to start laying them down or giving them a “there” before they over run it, than having them always be short.  Or taking a chance of having to blow them. A lot depends on the dog for sure, which is always a go to, which every trainer will say, “it depends on the dog for a lot of this stuff”   It most certainly does.  It is a difference between over running because they were taught to over run, than if they are over running because they want to avoid the pressure there.  And with Bliss it was certainly not a “wanting to avoid the pressure of the sheep”.  It was because I was trying to teach her to over run.  And not pull up short especially on that come bye side.  She has always favored the away to me, going over.  She likes that 11 o’clock position.  {note from SDTC: For the question about the pressure of the set out person, that is going to be covered in week four of the Started Dog in great detail.  I love that lesson that is coming: Lifting Off People.  That question will definitely be answered in week four}

Q –  If you don’t have ( or choose to use) a set out person, do you set on alfalfa/pellets at first.  How many sheep do you typically use in a set. When do you typically start to ask a dog to pick up off a set out person/dog.
A – When ever i can trap somebody to set out!  I don’t worry about picking off a person until they know quite a bit: they know a good stop, they know their flanks pretty well – not be perfect about it.  Know a steady and a “there” whistle or a “there” verbal at the least, so I can help them if they start sliding around worried about that person.  I can help them keep that, we touched on it just a little bit in this when I said “that I am just going to give her a little support with a little “there” whistle so she knows that she is alright” when she was picking up. And it will depend, as far as the alfalfa pellets to hold the sheep, we will go over that later on as well, but don’t put so many in there that the dog can’t move them.  Make sure there is not so many that they can’t lift them. Some dogs it doesn’t seem to bother them.  Some it won’t bother for maybe two or three times and then all the sudden they realize there is somebody up there.

Q – When you leave the dog on a lie down and walk toward sheep off of the fetch line and send her, you are in position to influence/shape top end. Does this affect the line/path she chooses when she leaves the post.. the slingshot effect?
A – It is not really a slingshot effect.  To me, the slingshot effect is, you have them on one side and have her taking an off balance flank.  If you imagine the line between Bliss and the sheep, and me off to the camera’s right, my sending her to the away to me would be more of a slingshot effect.  I would say that anyway.  I don’t use the slingshot effect very often, maybe a very odd time but not very often.  As far as the path she chooses, she would want to go the shortest route to the top of the sheep where I am and that is not around me firs; it is away from me. If I am the camera’s right of that line, she will go left and vice-a-verse, if I am on the left of that line she will go right.  But I don’t want the slingshot of her just whipping around me to keep her out.  I want her knowing she stays out on her own.

Q –  When you send her from your feet, you are angled toward her and are maybe a step ahead of her. You flick your stick but don’t actually face her. Does that help her bend out, but not cave in up top?  She has natural talent, but in general, is that how you send young dogs at first.
A – I am just trying to help her a little bit more because I am not at the sheep. But if she is not breaking off when I am at the sheep, I am certainly not going get off with that at my feet.  She doesn’t know how to start right when I am at the sheep, without breaking off or when I start right I am saying that is what I was after with her breaking off if she most certainly not going to do it when I am close to her and keep that line anyway. She might start off but , if she doesn’t know how to stay out, she is going to immediately break that arc that she started at my feet and tighten up like she did the once on the right.  The right hand side where I tried to stop her and ended up calling her off.

Q – In the video, the dog over-ran the balance point on several of the outruns and was flanked back to the proper place on the fetch. Would you be worried about the over-running at this point and is there anything else you would do to address it besides just flanking the dog back?
A – I would just give a steady but like I said, she is been taught to over run.  If the dog is avoiding pressure, it is avoiding the sheep, then certainly I am not going to teach it to over run; if it is doing that just to avoid pressure and afraid to come in that is quite a bit different deal.  To the other questions, much the same is I’m letting her over run in fact on that come bye, in particularly, I am insisting that she over run and then come back.

Q – Are there certain situations where you would want to stop the dog and re-flank it to push it out, versus giving the flank command on the fly? I saw that both were used in the video but was not sure of the reason in each case.
A – On the fly was to get her further around on the outrun and basically over-do that and go by balance.  Stopping was to push it out and around.

Q – On the one outrun where the dog didn’t stop to be pushed out, Scott called her off from behind the sheep. If the dog is tight and won’t stop or push out, is that how you recommend addressing it – call the dog off and try again? So if you can’t fix the outrun, you at least take the sheep away by not allowing a fetch? Was it intentional to let the dog get behind the sheep before calling her off, or is that just where she ended up in this particular instance?
A – I think I jumped the gun a little bit answering that question, we went over that just a little bit more.  That was just where I could get her called off. Taking the sheep from her kind of was a correction but it was really not my thought.  I just wanted to work on the outrun so I wanted to show a better outrun.

Q – Please define “inside” versus “outside” flank.
A – That is a good questions, sometimes we forget that some people are fairly brand new.  And if she is not, no offense meant. Basically inside would be off of balance.  The shortest route to get to the balance point of where the handler is would be an outside flank; basically an outrun.  And an inside flank would be off balance flank. There are probably more clever ways to put it but that, but an inside flank is basically an off balance flank except inside would take the dog in between the handler and the sheep.  An off balance flank could be either between the handler and the sheep or out and around the handler.  It is the sheep- handler- then the dog outside.  Basically and inside flank is an off balance flank.  The one they have to be taught to take because they don’t want to give up that balance.  {note from SDTC: next week in the Long Line Effect, Scott addresses this in detail.  Be sure to watch and ask if you have more questions}

Q – It seemed to me that Scott gave a “lie down” whistle to define the start of the fetch.  I’m not familiar with how it is done in a typical working situation or in a field trial, but was this because:
(a)  Bliss was routinely overshooting the pick-up point, &/or
(b)  the set-out person was confusing her and she needed some assistance?, or
(c)  a handler always helps the dog in this way to tell the dog when/where to begin the fetch?
A – Last part first, to tell the dog where to begin the fetch; not always but I do until they get further trained.  Certainly that’s not always, that is when the fetch is directly to you and not an off balance fetch.  A fetch where you have to show them where to pick the line up on an off balance fetch.  Now saying the line where you want the sheep, she is routinely over shooting and we have covered that, so she knows it is helping her with a little bit of an off balance flank and it is letting me work on the other flank at the same time.  Too far one way, working on a difficult flank then and finishing the outrun as well.  And then a little bit of the opposite flank to get to balance.  If I was helping her with the set out person a little bit, I can’t do that if she won’t listen.  If they won’t listen you can’t help them from doing it wrong if they are struggling.

Q –  Bliss obviously knows her verbal “come bye” and “away to me”, but in this session she understands some whistles too.  I am not familiar with the different whistles and their meaning, but I’m guessing Scott used a “lie down” whistle, and I suspect a “walk up” whistle.  At what point in her training did Scott introduce the whistle commands, and how?
A – I introduce the whistles as soon as she knew the action or the inaction of lie down, I started giving the whistle first and then immediately following with the verbal.  With Bliss the walk up, pretty much any whistle will do.  If it does not quite sound like a lie down whistle it must mean walk up for Bliss.

Q – When and how will Scott introduce the “come bye” and “away to me” whistles?
A – I introduce the flank whistles when she knows her verbal flanks not too bad, not 100%; she knows them some.  I just teach her, start blowing a whistle first when I know she is going to take that flank. Then repeat it with a verbal too so we don’t get into any confusion.  Now with that, I want to make sure she has a little room to go, in other words i don’t want to give her the flank whistle, reinforce it with the flank verbal, when I only wanted her to go five feet.  Because by the time I get it all out of my mouth, she is either not taking her flank command when it is still being said or she is further than I want her. 

Q – You didn’t appear to set your dog up in any manner (ie. Making her lie at an angle), but your dog turned herself (flanked) correctly on the start of her outrun. So that must have been work you did previously?
A -Yes it is, same as what we did with Lass in the Young dog.

Q – You seem to stop her at the top always a bit off 12 o’clock. over running to 1 if on the come by or over running to 11 on the away. What is the thinking behind this?
A – Same as before, easier to teach come in at balance than let her undershoot all the time.  It certainly is case by case, if the dog is wanting to keep going around because it is either off contact (which I don’t want) or afraid of the pressure/afraid of coming in with the set out person, maybe they are afraid of that person.  I will go at that different at first, they have to know it is okay at the top and I don’t care where they are at quite so much as long as they keep on eye on where the sheep are.  In other words, if it was to run off twelve o’clock and keep on running without any help, just going, going, going, I certainly would go the opposite a little bit then.  I would give her a little bit of a steady so she looks in at her sheep before she is at twelve o’clock , so they know it is okay. The idea is not to not look at the sheep, not keep an eye on where the sheep are and where to come in…it is just to find balance.  So over running, not being taught is certainly not any good either.  It is something we want to address so they know that they are hunting a spot to come in for balance. Tell them that it is okay to come in there.

Scott talked a bit about the homework…”I think on the homework, I said to try and extend it a little bit every time.  I mean  certainly you don’t have to extend it every time, but I don’t want you to be afraid, if they are doing it well, don’t be afraid to test them a little bit by extending it.  I think I said extend it a certain amount every time you work them and that is not totally acurate.  It is just try, week to week that they are going a little bit further.  You don’t want to go so far that things start going to pot.  Don’t be afraid to go backwards a step as well.”

Thank you for the great question and answer session!

 

Week 1 Homework

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